Saturday 24 January 2015

Friday 23rd - More Birds then Fort Kochi.


The pace at Eldho's is relentless. Early reveille for a 6.30 breakfast and then off for three hours birding. A different venue today, more mixed woodland than forest. We walk down a track beside a rubber plantation to Sainu's favoured spot and watch. At times we don't know which way to look as the birds fly in thick and fast. They are all of the colours of the rainbow as well as all shapes and sizes. Not counting repeats of yesterday we see another 30+ species today.

Towards the end of our spell we meet another group of Western birders who are desperate to see a Jungle Owlet. Within a few minutes Sainu spots one which poses beautifully. All too soon our time is up and we head back to collect our bags. The drive back to Ernakulam does not take as long as the drive out but the way to the Boat Jetty is blocked by a demonstration and Police barricade. By the time that we have got our luggage sorted the barricade has gone but our boy is away for the hills. A 40 rupee auto ride gets us there.

There are two queues for ferry tickets. D manages to join the Ladies' line and loses a few places before he realises and switches.  We stand in line and watch the teller count the contents of his till. He then ambles off and returns with a newspaper. Then his pal arrives for a chat.  Eventually he deems it auspicious to sell tickets. D obtains two at a price of Rs 4/- each. We board the ferry and find seats near the front. The trip out to Fort Kochi takes about 15 minutes with one intermediate stop. At the far end we are accosted by an auto driver who offers a fare of 50 rupees to our homestay. Given the heat this seems like a no brainer and we take it. Not the longest 50 p ride we have had but not the shortest either.

The address of the Saj Homestay is Federal Bank ATM Building which makes us wonder if we are staying in a skyscraper but it turns out to be the upper floor of a normal house that has an ATM kiosk built onto the front. First impressions are good as we are relieved of our bags and ushered onto a shady balcony where we are served tea. After a few minutes Mr Saj arrives with the register and we check in. He issues us with a local map, gives us the run down on a couple of dozen nearby eateries and tells us about the Kochi Bienniale, currently in full flow.

The room is a good size with AC and a spotless bathroom. There is wifi and a four poster bed. What more could we need? Old age is telling on us and we opt for an hour's snooze before much needed hot showers. Luxury. As it is Friday a modest libation is deemed to be in order and we head for LP's recommended hostelry,  the colourfully named XL Fishnet Bar. Falling betwixt quaint and nefarious,  the beers are cold and not too expensive as long as you don't fall for the 100 short in the change routine. D spots this and protests successfully. No tip for him. 




We continue to explore, arriving at the Bienniale ticket office as it closes. We check out a possible supper venue overlooking the waterfront but they are not yet open. We settle upon a restaurant called CasaLinda where we have Mixed Veg Pakora, Fish Molliee and Lime Rice with parottas. Delicious. +1 to Mr Saj for the recommendation.  A long day and we turn in early.

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