We sleep in this morning and it is 10a.m. by the time we make breakfast. We opt for local (as opposed to Continental) and are soon served up a kind of pineapple smoothie along with small masala dosas and the coconut sauce with small leaves that appears to be the all purpose accompaniment to any meal in this part of the world. This is followed by a bowl of melon chunks and a cup of black tea, mercifully without sugar.
When we hit the streets we realise how much cooler it was up in the hills. This is going to be a day for pacing ourselves. We head first for the Biennale ticket office and then the main exhibition complex nearby, called Aspinwall House. This is a collection of buidings that were originally the local headquarters for a commodity trader, now disused and in rather dilapidated condition. The theme of the 2014/15 Biennale is Whorled Explorations. The resulting collection of exhibits is eclectic to say the least - exhibits of light bulbs, weird machines, a pair of i-phones fixed to the wall showing simultaneous sunrise and sunset at opposite sides of the planet.
R is in her element, devouring the art and savouring the message that each piece imparts. Needless to say most of it passes straight over the head of D the philistine although he is quite impressed by the room full of various bubble making machines. Both of us enjoy those exhibits equipped with seats and electric fans. About halfway round the complex there is a shady waterside cafe where we linger over cold drinks, enjoying the sea breeze. But this can only be a temporary respite and we are once more immersed in the various installations. A mobile sculpture crafted from the chains used to secure luggage on Indian trains catches the eye, as does a dramatic and very noisy whirlpool. The big name artist is Yoko Ono. Her piece is a stack of postcards bearing the sentence 'Listen to the sound of the earth turning'. We are exhorted to take a postcard away with us. Does this mean that we will have to take out additional home contents insurance? By early afternoon even R is starting to flag and we head back to base for some AC and a shower. By 4 p.m. it has cooled down a bit and set out to explore in a different direction. The first job is to recce the venue for a yoga class that R has booked for tomorrow. This is down a series of alleys but well signed. Suitable arrangements are made and we move on towards Mattancherry, one of the historic parts of Kochi Island. The walk takes us through a non- touristy, mainly Muslim area full of small shops and workshops. D remembers that he wants a slimline phone charger suitable for use at railway stations and on trains. This costs a princely 80 rupees. We learned earlier today that we now only get 92 rupees to the pound, as opposed to 105 last year. Still the charger seems like a bargain. We also stock up on Orange Bites, the small boiled sweeties that R hands out with reckless abandon.
Eventually we reach Mattancherry with its very distinctive architecture. The hipped roofs on many of the buildings clearly indicate that this was originally a Dutch colony. Part of this area is known as Jew Town and has a Synagogue and an extensive Jewish cemetery. We stop for tea - with cardamom for R and Lemon for D, then stroll along the main street. This is all a bit touristy and as it is starting to get dark we decide to head back nearer home for a beer and supper. We turn to look for an auto and are greeted by the chap who drove us from the ferry landing to our homestay yesterday.
He enquires after our health and asks how our day has been before depositing us in the main part of town close to the XL. We take a refreshment there, keeping a close eye on our change, before heading to Fusion Bay, one of Mr Saj's recommended eateries. R opts for Roast Crab with Lemon Rice while D goes for a Kerala Syrian Beef meal, a bit like a thali with lots of little side dishes on one big plate. Both are delicious. Without too many leaves.
Looks like fun travels so far. The photos of birds in the wildlife park are wonderful!
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