Tuesday 3rd '- The Full Monumonty

R has booked a yoga class for 7 a.m. so we set the alarm and D goes in search of the sunrise. There are a surprising number of people about but the sky looks very hazy and D allows himself to be distracted by a tall corrugated iron shed, easily the tallest modern building in Hampi. Close inspection reveals that this houses a processional chariot, paraded at major festivals. The sun does actually appear as a ball of fire for a few minutes.

After the yoga is over we go to breakfast, getting in before the crowd and actually finding some useful wifi. As we are getting ready for our excursion there is a knock at our door. Asif is there with another young man who is introduced as Venky. A says that he had a wedding to go to and that V will be our driver today. How very Indian.  We are soon ready and head down to the street where V leads us around the corner to the auto. He seems to know his way around and we are soon parking up at the first complex of temples, which includes a very nice Ganesha statue. The interface between the huge boulders and the man made structures is very striking. 

After about an hour we move on to see a few of the lesser sites including an underground temple, where an astute lady relieves us of 50 rupees for taking us along a short subterranean obstacle course to see the temple's hidden treasures. She quite fancies herself as a photographer as well, borrowing D's camera to take a couple of shots.

Next up is a large walled compound called the Zenana Enclosure.  Here we have to shell out for tickets so it had better be good. It is. The buildings are in better shape and there is some effort put into the upkeep. There is even a small museum of artefacts and photographs taken around the site as it was first recorded for the Indian Government.  R is particularly taken with the Elephant Stables. 

At the back of the Enclosure is a less well maintained area and a notice forbidding photography. Besides tourists busily taking photos the main occupants are a mixed flock of sheep and goats. Some of buildings in this area look to be in imminent danger of collapse but there is no evidence of conservation work in progress. 

By now it is almost one o'clock and really quite hot. Venki proposes a return to Hampi for lunch but we decide on the State Tourist hotel just outside the boundary of the former city and therefore allowed to sell beer. We pick up two more minor sites on the way including the Queen's Bathouse. The State hotel has a large covered terrace and we get a shady table. The beers are cold and not too expensive, and the pakoras are ok rather than brilliant but a rest and recharge is just the ticket. As we finish off with a black tea Venky appears, obviously keen to get on with things.

He takes us to the entrance to the Vittala Temple complex. Attempting to demonstrate his driving prowess he misjudges the braking distance and rams a parked auto. There is a crunch and we depart while a heated discussion takes place. From here one can take an electric buggy to the temple proper or walk about 2km. We walked and got chance to see some of the minor ruins along the way including a large tank, still full of water, and the remains of the bazaar stretching along either side of the track. There also birds to watch including several eye catching bee-eaters. Our tickets from earlier give access to this site where a couple of buildings are off limits due to restoration work.The highlight is the Stone Chariot but there is more to see including a crypt like underground chamber. 

Around the back of the main temple there are a number of other ruins but for R the big attraction is the flock of tiny Red Avadavats feeding in the long grass. We watch them for a while before deciding that we have seen enough sights and sites today. Seven hours in total. Back at the temple we find the queue for the electric buggies and eventually establish which end is the front and which the back. It's immaterial really as there is a mad dash from all parts of the queue and other places as well when the buggies arrive. We pay our fare and get on the fourth buggy to arrive and are soon reunited with Venky and the auto. On the drive back to Hampi he keeps peering out of the side of the auto to look at the front. After one speedbump he stops and gets out. D sees that the headlamp is now held on by a piece of string, presumably as a result of the bump.

Back at base D starts to pay and is told an amount 50% higher than agreed. Asif magically appears and says that the price is 60% higher than discussed. D stands his ground and hands over the 1000 rupees agreed. We were left with a rather unpleasant taste after a fascinating day. We are hot and dusty so showers are in order before lemon sodas at our rooftop wifi haunt. For supper we try the Mango Tree, now in a new location with a rather lurid lighting scheme.  We enjoy the musroom peas masalla with jeera rice but feel a little hustled by the brisk service. It is much cooler tonight as we walk a circuit of town before retiring.