Friday, 23 January 2015

Monday 19th January - Kochi

Kochi has everything that one has come to expect of an Indian city. Traffic jams, a part built metro system and pavements that have been turned into obstacle courses by uncaring utility providers. The Abad Plaza is unphased by our 10 a.m. check in and has a fourth floor room ready.  Three hours sleep gets first priority followed  by sorting out an Indian SIM card for D's phone. The hotel porter suggests crossing the street outside the hotel and turning right. The sun is pretty hot although more hazy than bright.  After about twenty minutes in the heat D decides that this is a bust, recrosses the street and heads back in the opposite direction. 

150 metres beyond our hotel isa mobile phone outlet and a man who knows just what to do. In exchange for photocopies of passport and visa and a single passport mugshot he produces a form requiring several signatures, and an Airtel Sim which he cuts down to size. There isa brief discussion about which call and data plan is required before he requests Rs 700 and pronounces that the card would be active tomorrow. Let's see.

By now R has managed to wake up so it is time for a light snack at the hotel's coffee shop. The advert for this promised 'Short Eats' and we makerapid work of a plate of onion pakoras and a pair of veg cutlets. We had a little shopping to do and a short walk found us in a nearby air conditioned shopping mall. R has forgotten her flip flops so we take a turn through the 'Big Bazaar' supermarket. 

After an entertaining stroll through the kitchenware department we head upstairs to clothing. A pair of plastic sandals of suitable dimensions is located and tried on. These are deemed suitable but before purchase R decides that a look at the Ladies Bottomwear is required.  This results in her wardrobe being enhanced with a snazzy bue and gold set of palazzo pants. D is most conerned about this eary onset retail fever. All of this stuff has to be carried. 

Before leaving home we had worried a little about the possibility of dying of thirst in Kerala as the State Government has recently had an anti-booze drive and supposedly closed down all liquor outlets except for 5 star hotels and State run off licences. As we strolled out in search of supper we noticed a tavern adjacent to a hotel and thought that we would give it a go. Dark, male dominated and rather battered at the edges best describes the place. All Bar One it was not. The service was OK and the Kingfishers were cold so we were perfectly happy.

As it is Monday we settle for just the one and head out in search of Frys Village, a Lonely Planet recommendation for its Keralan cusine. We find it around the next corner and, as almost the only customers, we had no difficulty getting a table. The highly recommended roast crab was unavailable along with a couple of other items so we settled for King fish fry and chicken fry with Vegetable Pilav rice. The pilav was great and the fish and chicken had been fried almost until crunchy but it was surprisingly tasty. The portions were small enough to allow D to have a buttersctch ice cream to follow.

And so to bed.

Wednesday 21st January - Cruising

We have not quite cracked the sleeping through the might thing yet but we are definitely more rested this morning. The breakfast crew are almost ready when we arrive,  a few minutes after opening time, and do a passable masala omelette. A little spooked by the contradictory info gleaned yesterday we decide to go to the boat jetty early. Check out is painless and we get an auto at the first attempt.

At the jetty we are met by yesterday's tout who ushers us on to 'his' boat. A cursory examination establishes that there is not an alternative.  He tells us that the price is Rs 500. Bandit.  We are first on board and after loading our bags and parking R to reserve seats D heads off for water and bananas. The latter take a bit of finding but are procured.  The boat is starting to fill up. Nearly everybody is European, unlike yesterday, when everybody on the train appeared to be local. Close to departure time a group of men appeared, shouting slogans. According to one source they were the crew of the Government ferry, currently on strike.


We get underway about 15 minutes late. The route runs via a series of lakes and inlets that are connected by canals, the whole running parallel to the coastline and in a couple of places only separated from the sea by a line of sand dunes and the beach. We have done some backwater cruising previously ( see Radinja3) and have an idea of what to expect. We are not prepared for how much rubbish is floating about in some of the canals at the southern end of the ride. On the plus side there is lots to look at, not least the countless Brahminy Kites wheeling in the sky and showing off their vivid chestnut colouring.

After a couple of hours a lunch halt is announced and we pull up at a rather unpromising looking shack. Neither of us is up for lunch so we have a brief stroll to sate our appetites.  Back under way the scenery is much the same but there are fewer kites and more cormorants. At about the half way point we cross with the Government boat heading south at high speed and shortly afterwards arrive at a very decrepit set of lock gates. The upper gates are laboriously closed behind us and then even more laboriously the lower gates opened in front.  At a generous estimate all of the labour and time consumed achieved a 15 inch drop in level.

By now we are well over six hours into a scheduled eight hour voyage on wooden slatted benches and morale is a little low. Even the bird watcher is complaining of a numb bum. A stop for a chai break is welcome and a thinning of the crowd opens up the opportunity for some door riding. Spirits are raised by sightings of various kingfishers and bee-eaters, mostly on wires over the water. It is starting to get dark and our driver has to be alert for houseboats sailing without lights. We arrive almost an hour late and manage to get briefly lost on the short walk to our digs. A couple of local set us right and we are delighted to make it to the Venice Castle Homestay.

 



Thomas is an excellent host and the place makes an immediate good impression, simple but clean and comfortable. This is the cheapest room that we have booked for our trip at £15 for B&B but looks like it deserves its good ratings on TripAdvisor. Our room comes complete with a small resident gecko. We  have a quick sluice and head out to the Royale Park for supper. We enjoyed the food here on our last visit and we are ready for some refreshment. The dreaded licensing clamp down has not reached here yet so we enjoy a couple of Kingfishers with our Chilly Fish, Chicken with Mushrooms and Cashews and Veg Biriyani. A feast!  

A stroll back to the Venice Castle in the balmy night air rounds off our day. 

Monday, 19 January 2015

Touch Down


The journey passed without incident although there was a minor frisson when Passenger Watson was called to the desk just before boarding commenced. Sadly it was some other undeserving Watson who got the complimentary upgrade. We weren't complaining at the back of the plane,  where we we fed and watered and D got through 14 episodes of 'The Big Bang Theory'.  Is this a record?

Traffic build up meant that we were a little late in Dubai but the connection was made and we were soon having a breakfast of omelettes and curried chick peas. R's watch said it was half past midnight. Daybreak was quite spectacular viewed from 39,000 feet over the Arabian Sea. We reached Kochi on time with temperature already mid-20s C and very humid.

Immigration consisted of four consecutive queues. The first checked that you had filled in an Ebola Declaration form correctly,  the second man electronically checked the passport and visa, the third man checked the visa manually and the fourth man declined to accept the Customs Declaration forms that we had carefully completed.

Having waited anxiously for twenty minutes by the carousel for our bags we discover that some interfering busybody has taken them off and left them on the floor. The pre paid taxi system worked well and we were soon reminded of why we travel by train in India. To be fair the road surfaces are pretty good but the road behaviour is as erratic as any that we have seen anywhere in India.



Sunday, 18 January 2015

So far so good

Looks like a good time to be flying out of Scotland. The snow did not impede our drive to Glasgow Airport but -15C forecast for tonight does not sound good.

Thanks to Alex & Craig for chauffeuring. Look after yer Maw's car.

The inbound flight is in so looking good.

Saturday, 17 January 2015

Ready to Rock & Roll





On line check in done, preferred seats secured, luggage packed. Tomorrow can't come soon enough.

Wednesday, 14 January 2015

Tickets



This is what a plan looks like when it is ready to execute.  16 reserved trains, 4 reserved flights, a load of hotels, a couple of wildlife excursions and a Railway Retiring Room booking form. The whole pack weighs 332 grams.

This post also allows us to check that the really useful 'Post by e-mail' facility is working for this blog.

Tuesday, 6 January 2015

Happy New Year

It's that time again!

Only a few days now until we set off again for our annual rail jaunt around India.

Regulars will know the form - trains, food, bird watching and some Indian idiosyncracies. No trams this year but from around mid-February there should be some interesting Narrow Gauge stuff if all goes to plan.

 If you haven't been keeping up here is your homework.

2011 - Delhi, Rajasthan, Darjeeling, Kolkata

2012 - Kolkata, Shimla, Amritsar, Delhi, Jodhpur, Mumbai, Matheran

2013 - Kolkata, Chennai, Ooty, Alleppey, Mumbai, Gujarat, Jaisalmer, Delhi

2014 - Kolkata, Odisha, Varanasi, Orchha, Khajuraho, Bharatpur, Delhi


We will be flying into Kochi and working our way north with visits to Mysore, Hampi, Panjim, Mumbai, Gwalior and McLeodganj before ending up in Delhi in early March.

Hope you enjoy the ride.